April 04, 2013


Friendly Observer
By Arthur Keefe

Caught out
This week my Filipino friends could laugh at me! For some months I had been looking forward to a short trip to Vietnam. I duly set out for Manila, and presented myself at the International Departure desk there, only to be denied boarding. I was told I needed VISA for Vietnam, the only ASEAN country where this applies. If I had a Filipino passport there would have been no problem, but UK passport holders have no such privilege. It is usually the other way round. A British passport gives VISA free entry to many countries, whereas Filipinos have to go through tedious and expensive hoops to travel widely. My foolishness (some might even call it arrogance) is not checking this time, had given me my come upperance. It also made me experience how Filipinos must often feel when facing barriers not suffered by others.
Another byproduct of this venture was my enforced stay in Manila while I made plans for my return here. I used the time to visit the National Museum and Art Gallery in Luneta. Not a wealth of pictures on show, but I was impressed with the quality of some of the leading 19th Century artists from here, especially Juan Luna (1857-1899)
The Philippines does not pay much attention to its own cultural heritage, witnessed here by the very few visitors on the only free day each week (Sunday). My advice to anybody with a few hours to spare in Manila, is to celebrate their artistic heritage at least once.
                I went to visit the other main public gallery on Monday, the Ayala Museum in Makati, but cannot comment on its current exhibition, as like Vietnam, it was closed! (Every Monday). I have been there before and it is another gallery well worth a visit!
From Makati, I caught the MRT to Baclaran to get to the airport. What a contrast. Makati is very “first world”. Clean streets, no sidewalk obstructions, smooth roads (well policied), and walkways in the sky to separate pedestrians and traffic, and many international restaurants. For business travelers and the well to do, who might only visit Makati on a flying visit, the impression they will get of the Philippines will be very favourable.
Baclaran is the opposite in all respects. Extremely dirty, with streets full of litter. I saw two people urinating in the street. Vehicles and pedestrians compete for space, as there seems to be virtually no organization and stalls set up anywhere. Damaged roads included one with a hole big enough to partially hide a motorcycle!
I often puzzle about the Philippines. Very efficient and well managed services coexist with extreme beaurocracy and inefficiency. Friends often comment “well this is the Philippines”, as if it must always be like this. This cannot be so. If some parts of government can be run efficiently with use of modern IT, “one stop shops”, and courteous staff, so can the rest. If parts of Manila can resemble the most modern cities elsewhere, so can the other parts. I am not sure what it is that prevents improvements spreading fast and widely.
Of course Makati has a huge income and Baclaran does not, but redistributing that wealth is in the hands of government. Ensuring poor public services emulate the best is also in the hands of those running the services.
Perhaps it is the uncomplaining, undemanding, passive acceptance of the public which is to blame.
Oddly though when I reflected on my visit to the two extremes of Manila, it was Baclaran which was full of life! I might prefer to live in Makati, but for an interesting day out and some bargain shopping, it is Baclaran which wins.  

No comments:

Post a Comment